Sunday, February 13, 2011

East africa Bliss 1033 hits in two weeks!

Thank you for taking the time to read the blog. Any other suggestions from here I will be heading towards Zanzibar on Tuesday Thank you again Christine for suggesting Lamu. It really is special..



Cheers
Jay


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Location:Lamu Kenya

Lamu smiles

This is the 2nd write. Technology is not a perfect tool to describe an experience. The day was amazing with discovery and adventure. Walking on your own through the streets only wide enough for a donkey. The color of the saris and the women in the hijab walking the streets the mix of Muslim and Christian is evident. Small quaint mosques are peppered in between the alleys and homes. Today is the one day off families get to to spend together. And go to church.

The markets were a buzz with shoppers debating price and picking the fruit. Walking through the winding streets you always think you will find a dead end but it connects to another ally then another like a labyrinth. On this journey unplanned fate I met Steven. He is a strong young man. Was surrounded by 4 children running and giggling only thing different from kids at home is the kids had bare feet and no,cell phone , iPods or hmmm actually they had nothing at all and were having the most wonderful time.


I greeted Steve with a Jambo and that was it. We spoke for a while and then I suggested I go get some sweets for the kids. They followed us like mice to the piper. One little boy in the red shorts was hopping like a rabbit. We then handed the sweets out to all the passing children. Instantly we had cheering fans all around us.


After we ran out Steve asking nothing of me walked around the town. Told me some highlights and some good view points.








YouTube Video


YouTube Video

We then walked to Shella town. It is more european with perfect coral walls painted windows. Actually I really preferred stone town with it's congested stress and random donkeys wandering the alleys. We had lunch at a local place. The air was scorching hot. After we walked back using a short cut. Well we were inland the heat on our backs. It was the hottest since I arrived. We were to far from the ocean to get the breeze. I was smart enough to pick up a bottle of water. Walking through a small village on the sand dunes were men drinking alcohol empty bottles strewn about the sand. Like other religious groups not everyone abides to their spiritual rules.

This was the place you come to drink if you are a Muslim. As I write the mosque is making the call to prayer it drifts across the roof tops.

The plan is to have dinner with Steve tomorrow after a snorkeling trip around the islands. We will shop together and his wife will cook. Looking forward to it.



A donkey crash between a gravel truck and a taxi. Really. It was an ugly site ;)

Location:Lamu Kenya

Gravel trucks and taxi's

Donkeys are greatly respected in Lamu they even have a sanctuary. That being said they are also set to work every day.


Well at least he has a job. Gravel truck.


This is the local blacksmith. Has not had his coffee yet.

YouTube Video





Location:Lamu Kenya

Total delivery Kenyan style

When you walk the streets of Mombasa you get a feeling of a mouse in a maze. But after only 24 hours you are dodging traffic like a pro. The mutatu,s are everywhere fighting for the next fare. If they see a muzungu the race is on to overtake the mutatu for the fare. Food is never far away stalls of fruits, watches, clothing spices cover the streets.


Everyone works here if you are strong you can be a delivery man. Wooden carts put together with one axle about 6 feet long with handles fastened on with wood to push or pull. They haul water, fruit, bags of all sorts. Some have two or three drivers due to the size of the load. The tires are worn and tired. They weave between the traffic sun beating down on them. I see only few people begging for food very few. The only ones you see begging have appendages missing so work prospects are few.


BUS TRIP to LAMU
When I first went to get a bus ticket I met Abu. He worked at the bus station. He gave me his cell number to make sure all was well. He finished school in computer networking. Work is very hard to find here. So many educated but few prospects. If you bump into someone they continue to walk. If you bump a car you honk your horn wave you hand and continue.
People smile and say jambo "welcome". They want to ask questions. And yes there are the ones who want to make business. If you are direct they do understand and move on.

Just pulled into a small town time for lunch no need to leave the bus lunch comes to you. Samosas for 10 shillings water, cookies , nuts, fruit and even watches.

Ask a local and they will save you from paying far to much. It was a lovely lunch. The only challenge is the temperature in the bus goes up 20 c in 5 minutes.




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Location:Mombasa Kenya

The coral island

A must for bus trips. Mombasa to lamu was one of the most scenic I have ever seen. For 2 hours we weaves down a pothole laden road back and forth back and forth still not able to avoid the potholes and the cars. Then we turned to the dirt road. The soil turned from the deep rich red to the color of a late 60's superbettle The creamy beige.

Palm Trees sprouted from all sides the landscape was even dryer. Small villages and huts dotted the vast landscape. The huts are made out of several different types of supplies. Some were square and some round. The roof's were all made from grass. Some were thatched and some had sticks placed across with a muddy clay like mortar keeping the Walls together. It really could have been from an old film 90 years ago. You see women walking on lathes that spring up from know where carrying some large jug of water grasses or even attacks of wood. They male it look so easy. At one village the locals came out to sell food to the people on the bus. One woman while rocking her baby in a makeshift hammock was selling mangos from the aluminum bowl on her head. She would give the baby a good rock quickly dart to the bus sell a few mangos and return to the baby without missing a swing.

When you are given no other option the kenyans choose to survive. And from what I have seen no running water no HBO, no electricity , in many cases no mode of transportation of there own.. Not that there are not millions of motorbike taxis ,tuk tuk , or matatos very very accessible.

What I mean is in this country you do not work you starve. So they have one option find some kind of work. And they do they really do. Family is first here and education is high on the list but most with such large families cannot afford to send them all. I digress back to lamu.

The ride was hot and dusty I had three seat companions on my trip. Two were larger people quick made for a tight fit. The last was a small Muslim man with a great big smile. I was the only tourist on this bus.


1 hour before or destination I noticed more wildlife. Monkeys and even a small group of baboons. I did see the most amazing small colorful bird but I have no idea what it was. The fields were all burnt everywhere and many cleared but I did not see a purpose and they did not make them into fields.

At this point the sweat was unbearable and my ass was sore as the seats were hard as a rock. We made it to the pier the ferry taxis were waiting.


You could take a jet boat of the regular ferry the jet boat looked like a Mexican panga and of course was a higher cost. I opted for the slow boat with all the locals.


Regulations here mean little. If you over load a matatu the police pull you over. The way this is done is they hand the police officer their drivers license and inside is 50 ksh Really a fair bribe All things considered. Sadly it dose not help the number of fatalities due to poor driving and overloaded matatus.

.

Location:Lamu island kenya

Don't forget the jipati. This is the food page so keep looking for updates

Food is a huge part of travel. Trying the local fare and experiencing new foods. Take time to look at a menu and order the food even if you are not quite sure what it is. Mombasa food has a Indian influence with tikka chicken, to mutton curry on rice. Brianni is an amazing blend of spices The food here has not been to hot. You can ask for more spice. Jipati is fried bread you may have Had at India restaurants anywhere in the world. When you have the meat dishes do not expect it deboned for you. They have the sauce usually separate and they call it soup you add it to the dish.





Have you noticed the lack of veggies? This is a challenge meat and bread of rice maybe some fruit after. Of the fruit is Devine mangos, pineapple.



Papaya, mango and fresh juice is the morning staple in Kenya. This was included in my stay with toast , a poached egg and tea.




Having lunch in Shella Rangaleni with my new friend Steve. We had ugaly Karanga was a mix of beef and the other plate was made out of flour like a dumpling mix very bland but quite filling. Steve is a local and we met by chance. This was not as good as Teresahs but not bad.

Location:Kenya

My matatu experience

Hey there!
I'm Aashild, come from Norway, turns 21 in tree months and have experienced the scariest car travel ever! This is my matatu story.

When I first saw a matatu I thought; "I'm never ever going to take a matatu anywhere". It looked like they where trying to press as many people as possible inside one car, and then some more. And that is exactly what they where doing. Every local told us that the best way to get around this place was to take a matatu form that place to that place. And so the adventure began. We stepped outside the huge gate hiding our hostel from the rest of the world and not only one but several matatu came racing up the road to catch us first. "Yeah, this look save", we thought. Not only does they race up a narrow, they look like they are about to fall apart by the first bump they hit. The door barely shut, the windows are wide open, the seats worn out and the driver, if you're lucky, sober. The matatu does not only have a driver, it also have a person shouting, screaming, hanging half ways outside the car catching people like a person catching a fish with a net.

So here they came, racing down the road and the fastest car reached us. The person-hanging-outside-the-car-man opened the door and we stepped into madness #1. There are barely two free seats in the car and here we are, five persons trying to squeeze into the most smelling box on earth. Small and big, wide and tall. People of all sizes. The best part of this is that we are bringing five huge pack backs that also is going to fit inside this x-small size bus. Somehow there actually is room for us in there. Fourteen passengers sitting in seats, tree sitting on the floor/on someones lap, and then to more standing halfway out the door. You feel real safe! And if that is not enough, the matatus are still racing down the stress, passing other cars driving the same way, almost hitting a car coming towards you. When you finally makes to knocks in the sealing letting the driver know this is the place you're going off and you squeezes out of the matatu, you take a deep breath praising the lord you're still alive!


Theses are matatos lined up getting their fares. 70 percent off the whole city's traffic are matatus. You can imagine the pollution.

You're asking what i'm thinking now? "l'm never ever taking a matatu again!!"




Hi! My name is Christiane, I am 20 years old and from Norway. This is my matatu story. When we arrived Mombasa the first thing I noticed was a lot of beaten up vans driving pass us with more people inn it than it could carry. A local person told us to take a matatu to the bus station, and i was thinking "what the hell is a matatu!?" After 30 seconds I realized that it was one of those beaten up vans which I promised myself to stay far away from! Jeje, everyone does it so we got one. The man who dealt with the money tried to charge us 100 ksh, but we refused and said that we wouldn't pay more than 20 because we had talked to the locals and we weren't paying more than the locals. That's first lesson when it comes to matatus, don't get ripped off. We got in with our huge backpacks stuffed on top off us with smelly people on both sides and a driver who had a joint in his hand. I am not telling my dad about that! It wasn't a long drive but it was ridiculous. The driver drove like I expected and there's probably no speed limit here in Africa! The first ride was horrible and I was so thankful for still being alive when i got out. Now I am driving them several times a day with out any concernes, because you will get used to sitting in a van with 20 sweaty people driving like you had very angry bull behind you.




Aashild and Christiane from Norway wonderful young ladies for a 4 month adventure all over the globe. Have a wonderful time.

Location:Kenya

The pool boy

Today I decided to take on the pool bob gave me his blessing. It turned out the pump and filter were off. When I checked the pool chemicals there was no chlorine at all!!!! the PH was out of control.
So after some cleaning and purging the filter. water started to flow. One of the staff started the vacuum it out and we mixed the chlorine. Tested pool and it was dead on. Only challenge now was the algae bloom that had formed over the last 4 days. I asked bob to pick me up me up the algae killer so I can fix it on my way back through. I have to say bob is a interesting but strange creature. He greets everyone and then returns to drinking by late night he has insulted at least three people and has completely lost track of how much he has had to drink.. You will find him asleep in random places. He actually takes pride in not knowing anything about hotels or even mechanics. When I went to show him how to mange the pool he grinned and said it was a waste as he will never retain it.. Then again he had been drinking since 10 am so that was a fair statement. It is a must place to go when in Mombasa. It's like a east africa faulty towers without Cybele. I think when I return on Tuesday they may be out of water. Hah

For those that know me well you may not have been surprised. I was so happy to fix the pool.




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Location:Nyali Mombasa

Estate in Mombasa. Mombasa backpackers.

Plans do change. Yesterday was the walk around the city. Picked up supplies. Well the girls were right this place is a very unique. The mutatu dropped us off at this 14 foot white wall with a large wooden gate. We knocked on the gate and the door opened.


A Massai in his traditional clothes opened the door we entered to a huge courtyard laden with palms a large emerald pool in the front of a large Estate. Really quite surreal. In the courtyard at the pool was the owner bob. He is a eccentric 27 year old south African gem miner. I was waiting for magnum to drive up in his Ferrari. there was also Julie from Norway , Chris and Dean from Manchester. They sounded like an episode of red dwarf. We walked into this side entrance to the top floor and there was a large dorm room for 10 people plus two more in the mid and lower levels. The ensuite bathroom was at least 400 sq feet with a large tub and stand up shower hell it even had a bodea "sp". Now if we could actually get the water to work


It was multiple leveled with a very large kitchen and 4 large living areas. All in the place is at least 14 thousand sq feet or more.


Also here was Jammie (pronounced yammy) from Finland and Martin from Germany both driving around africa by motorcycle.


Bob has only been here for one week so much is in I'll repair but hell it is a mansion backpackers!!! Their is even an in-house cook 6 days a week. Last night was his day off so when we left for fort Jesus bob picked up meat from the local butcher. We picked up mangos and other veg. Once we returned the BBQ had expanded to 9 people. Bob and I were the chefs we made mango chicken, steak and rove with mango. The kitchen was not yet set up so we winged it. The BBQ was a late night event so plans changed I voided the bus trip and opted for a fun night of BBQ and swimming.
We ate at 11 pm. The bar is a honesty bar you take a beer and write it down. I am very impressed all the hotels and guest houses run under the honesty system.

I look forward to coming back once this place is all set up. The possibilities are endless.

We all swam in the pool till 130 am. What fun. Will have to go back to town today and buy another bus ticket. I can accept loosing 9 dollars.

Location:Nyali Mombasa